Friday, September 30, 2011

Hanging photograph Frames - What You Need to Know

Hanging photograph Frames - What You Need to Know


Once you have the pictures framed, you're ready for the fun of getting your pictures up on the wall. Hanging pictures isn't hard but it does want a few steps to be done beforehand, like manufacture sure the frame has hardware on it and that you have a good idea of where you want to hang it. Then all you have to do is settle on how you want to hang it and get it done.  

First let's talk about the different ways you can hang your photo frame. There are of course three basic ways with which to do this: screws, nails, or adhesives.

Framing Nails Tool 21 Degree

Nails


Hanging photo frames with finishing nails is an exquisite choice since the nails are easy to install and are small adequate so that they don't generate large holes on your wall. You want to hammer the nail into your wall at a 45 degree angle and if potential put them into a stud in the wall. If you're hanging large or slightly heavy frames you of course need to hammer the nails into a wall stud otherwise your photo frames will fall. If you're unsure how to uncover a wall stud, you can purchase an uncostly 'wall stud finder' at your local hardware store (or you can always tap on the wall until it sounds solid).

Screws

Hanging wall frames with screws can make larger holes and should only be considered, for the most part, when you're hanging frames to concrete, stone or brick walls. In this case, you would need to pre-drill a hole in the rock wall using a "mason" drill bit that is the correct size for the screw. You'll also want to use a screw anchor so that it's properly secured.

Adhesives

A hanging wall frame can also be secured by the third method: adhesive. Adhesives are gaining popularity fast since there's no need to put holes in the wall. 3M's Command Strip is one popular brand used for hanging photo frames and they come in the form of Velcro or hooks. These adhesive items are only designed to hang smaller pictures, but some can hold up to 5 lbs. Carefully read the instructions so you know if your photo frame is too heavy. If you try hanging photo frames that are too heavy, you'll risk damaging the photo frame.

Now that you've decided which technique is best for hanging wall frames in your home, now you need to determine where they should go.

Selecting Where to Hang Your photo Frames

If you're only hanging one or two frames, find man to help you. Have them hold the frame along the wall and adjust their position until you find the exquisite place. The ideal position for hanging photo frames is around eye level, or about ¾ the way up the wall. If these pictures are the only things that will hang on your wall, it makes your job super easy.

However, if you have other frames or items already on your wall, you'll want to make sure the spacing looks good. For complicated frames, it's a good idea to lay them down on the floor and see how they look together to get the best layout. To get your photo frames positioned just the way you want supervene these simple steps:

Take the measurements of the area of your wall where the photo frames will hang. Duplicate that space on the floor using a string as the border. Carefully place your photo frames on the floor (hopefully carpet) and move them around until you get a layout you like.his will keep you from putting a bunch of exiguous holes in your wall while you crusade for the exquisite placement. Once you have your layout, you may want to recruit some help to make the process go a exiguous faster.This will keep you from putting a bunch of exiguous holes in your wall while you crusade for the exquisite placement.  Once you have your layout, you may want to recruit some help to make the process go a exiguous faster.

Hopefully by using the right hardware and following these basic steps, you'll be able to hang your photo frames fast and of course and keep them hanging beautifully for years down the road.

Hanging photograph Frames - What You Need to Know


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Thursday, September 29, 2011

B & C Eagle 314X131RSS/22 Round Head 3-1/4-Inch by .131-Inch by 21 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Stainless Steel Framing Nail (1,000 per Box)

Review for B & C Eagle 314X131RSS/22 Round Head 3-1/4-Inch by .131-Inch by 21 to 22 Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Stainless Steel Framing Nail (1,000 per Box)

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Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Grip-Rite GR034HG Round Head 3-1/4-Inch by .131-Inch by 21 Degree Paper Collated Hot-Dip-Galvanized Framing Nail (4,000 per Box)

Review for Grip-Rite GR034HG Round Head 3-1/4-Inch by .131-Inch by 21 Degree Paper Collated Hot-Dip-Galvanized Framing Nail (4,000 per Box)

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Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Grip-Rite GR07 Cooler Round Head 2-3/8-Inch by .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Vinyl Coated Framing Nail (5,000 per Box)

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Monday, September 26, 2011

Grip-Rite GR301 Round Head 3-Inch by .120-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Vinyl Coated Framing Nail (4,000 per Box)

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Sunday, September 25, 2011

Grip-Rite GR08RHG Round Head 2-3/8-Inch by .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Hot-Dip-Galvanized Framing Nail (5,000 per Box)

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Grip-Rite GR08RHG Round Head 2-3/8-Inch by .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Hot-Dip-Galvanized Framing Nail (5,000 per Box) Technical Details


  • 8d 'Cooler' - 2-3/8" x .113" - Vinyl Coated, 21° Full Round Head
  • RING SHANK, HOT-DIPPED GALVANIZED, Plastic Collated Strip Nails
  • Sturdy Cardboard Carton with Bi-Lingual (English-Spanish) Color-coded Label
  • Use with Grip-Rite® GRTRH350 - 21° Full Round Head Framing Nailer
  • 5000 Nails Per Carton

Grip-Rite GR08RHG Round Head 2-3/8-Inch by .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Ring Shank Hot-Dip-Galvanized Framing Nail (5,000 per Box) Reviews


Full Round Head Framing Nails20 to 22 degree nails. For use with Bostitch model No. N88RH and N95RHN, Hitachi model No. NR83A, NR90AC, Senco model No. SN60, SN65, Duo-Fast model No. CN-350, CN-137, Paslode model No. 5325-RHN, 5350/SRH-20, Makita model No. AN8300, Porter Cable model No. FR350, Atro model No. RHS900, and DeWALT model No. D51845 and D51844. Hot dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails are designed for pressure treated lumber. (Plastic collated.)No. GR04HG: 2" long, .113-gauge, hot dip galvanized, ring shank, 5000 nails per box, Available Only At Waco, Lexington.No. GR08RHG: 2-3/8" long, .113-gauge, hot dip galvanized, ring shank, 5000 nails per box, Available Only At Waco, Lexington.No. GR07: 2-3/8" long, .113-gauge, bright finish, plain shank, 5000 nails per boxNo. GR08R: 2-3/8" long, .113 gauge, bright finish, ring shank, 5000 nails per boxNo. GR09HG: 2-3/8" long, .113-gauge, hot dip galvanized, plain shank, 5000 nails per boxNo. GR212131HG: 2-1/2" long, .131-gauge, h Readmore .. .


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Saturday, September 24, 2011

Finishing Baseboard Trim

Finishing Baseboard Trim


Installing trim means you've already gotten through the toughest parts of remodeling a room. Factory of baseboard trim is something akin to icing on a cake and should be taken on as an enjoyable scheme that signals the end of what may have been a long, hard job. Along with wall and window trim, it's the finishing touch, the accent, the piece de resistance - and knowing this should help weighty you truly toward its completion. But don't get in such a hurry that you don't take care to do it right!

Finger-Joint or Continuous-Grain

Framing Nails Tool 21 Degree

Before purchasing, conclude either or not you'll be painting or staining after the Factory of baseboard trim. This can make a unlikeness in the price of your trim. For baseboard that's going to be painted, you can buy the less-expensive finger-joint trim, which is molding created by joining and machining shorter pieces together to form one continuous distance of trim. The seams are visible, but very effectively covered by paint. If you conclude on staining the trim, however, you need to go with continuous-grained baseboard. This higher-priced baseboard trim costs more but results in an spicy continuity accentuated by the seamless grain of the wood brought out by stain. Do all painting and/or staining of the molding before installation.


Begin Factory of baseboard trim at an outside corner, if one is present, in the room. Otherwise, start at the wall on the opposite side of where the door going into the room is located. Because this is the first wall people see when they walk into a room, you want this one to have the best-looking baseboard possible. If you run short for some reason or the other on the other walls and need to splice pieces, it won't be nearly so evident.

Angled and quadrilateral Ends

Use a power miter saw for Factory of baseboard trim at inside and outside corners. A T-bevel can part odd angles that don't part what should be neat, 90-degree angles (but rarely are!) and when walls aren't quadrilateral to floors, baseboard trim can be coped to fit with a coping saw. For the first section of baseboard trim, the cut is simple: Make both ends square, no angle cutting is necessary. It's the subsequent, connecting pieces of baseboard that need to be fitted at either projection of this piece. Those two pieces also are angled only at those corners with their opposites ends being square. The remaining pieces of baseboard are cut with angled ends meeting quadrilateral ends until the room is finished.

Finishing Up

Use six-penny finishing nails to fasten the baseboard to the studs, which are normally about 16 inches apart along the wall. If you do not have a stud finder, tap along the wall and listen for the hollow versus solid sound that differentiates between a stud being there or not. To hide the nail heads or determined indentations made by the nails, fill with wood putty to match the stain or touch up with paint, as needed.

Finishing Baseboard Trim


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