Sunday, July 31, 2011

base Causes For Residential building Failures

base Causes For Residential building Failures


A/Overview

This document has been written to give clients of property protect an comprehension of the most base types of building defects that can be found in structure whilst doing an As 4349.1 inspection. This list gives the reader a basic form of the more base defects and the reader should be aware that there are undoubtedly thousands of forms of building defects. The items which we have listed are the more base ones only.

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B/Abstract


The narrative lists some of the more base residential building failures including the causes based on the case studies carried out by the writer as a licensed Builder. The writer has also included some of the causes of the failures.

Purpose
The purpose of this narrative is to give the reader a summary of the types of residential building failures and the recommend remedies to these defects.

Method
This narrative is presented as a case study based on the taste and personal records of the author over the last 15 years as a licensed Builder.

Findings
A large proportion of structural building failures listed in this narrative have in my belief been caused by the mismanagement of stormwater around houses prominent to movement in the homes. The remainder of the failures are caused by poor building practices and or poor maintenance.

C/Introduction

The most base forms of building failure noted during As 4349.1 house inspections by the writer in Adelaide are as follows.

Slab Edge wetting
This is the horizontal ingress of moisture and salts in explication from the soil which enter into footing edges through the capillary operation (Suction caused by the concrete) of the concrete. It is caused by a estimate of factors including, Concretors pushing down the Fortecon membrane with edge forms prior to pouring a floor slab, relatively poor cement concrete in the footing (Many engineers have called for 32 Mpa concrete to resist the ingress of salts in lieu of 20 to 25 Mpa currently used), Concrete over pours caused when concretors edge forms are not located low sufficient to stop a horizontal over pour which can lead to water ponding on the top face of the over pour creating a pool of water. The final cause is the lack of a plastic membrane to be located between the paving and the footing edge.

The damage that can be caused though this problem includes, mould and rotting to the underside of floor coverings internally and the fretting of the concrete through the salt attacking the cement matrix through a hydraulic operation both internally and externally. (Salt crystals advance inside the concrete matrix thereby causing it to fret and crack).

Rising Damp in walls
This is a similar problem to Salt damp detailed below. The main discrepancy is that Salt damp is generally a 90 to 100% break down of the Damp course in the wall whilst rising dampness is a partial failure of the Damp course and the partial failure generally means that the damage to the masonry wall is not as bad as Salt damp. There is a good chance that rising dampness may be found in most pre 1950 homes and the Rising dampness could be diminutive to erosion of the mortar joints by as diminutive as 1 to 2 mm from its former face. The rehabilitation is the same is Salt damp.

The client should be aware any way that in most cases the rising dampness is not treated as the erosion of the masonry is very slow and it may have taken 50 years for the mortar to erode 4mm deep from the face of the brickwork. I would propose clients to monitor this if the damage is not major.

Salt Damp in Walls
This is caused through the vertical ingress of moisture and salts into a wall which can lead to the wall fretting and not being able to take structural loads. The damage caused to the masonry is from the salt crystals inside the masonry increasing prominent to the bricks and or mortar fretting. In some cases the salt damp can render the masonry unstable.

It is caused by a estimate of factors including the full breakdown of the damp course (Pre 1910 homes had pitch or bitumen between the footing and bricks and this becomes brittle with age), paving and or render bridging the damp course also causes this.

Breacher piece failures in showers This is where the breacher piece fails through metal fatigue via thousands of heat cycles inside the wall (This is where the hot and cold water meet inside the wall in the shower). Water then flows into the walls. generally a breacher piece will fail in a shower every 25 to 30 years or so and it is quite common. A tell tale sign of a breacher which has been substituted is two off distinct tiles to the walls of the shower.

During inspections carried out by property protect the business carries out a search for of the wet area walls in its premium narrative using an electronic moisture meter to recognize this defect. High moisture levels to the walls next to the shower generally indicate that it is leaking.

Brick increase
Cracks in walls Older homes can have brick increase cracks which ordinarily occur at the end of a wall in a vertical plane. Clay bricks will undoubtedly advance as they are porous. If a house does not have control joints in the wall the bricks can exert a compression load on one another prominent to cracking.

Terracotta roof tiles
Fired clay roof tiles will fret when exposed to moisture for long periods of time and this generally occurs at the laps of the tiles. The tiles can also fret in seaside environments due to salt attacking the tiles. It is not uncommon to see these roof tiles fretting to the laps on the underside of the roof tiles. As these tiles age they can also become very brittle and are undoubtedly cracked.

In most instances when the tiles are fretting they will need replacing within the short term. Concrete cancer in footings and precast concrete lintels. This occurs when the steel bars inside the concrete rust due to moisture/salt/Carbonation ingress into the concrete. As the bars rust they advance causing the concrete to crack. This can cause cracking in the surrounding concrete elements. The client should be aware that it is very costly to repair this defect.

Tree damage
Although some tree roots can cause hydraulic damage from the roots physically animated the building element, most building failures are caused by the tree withdrawing moisture from the soil. This then leads to the soil contracting which can cause building elements to drop or move.

In a large estimate of inspections over the years the writer has observed walls and footings dropping or animated due to soil contraction when a tree is too close to the base of a wall. In most instances the writer would propose clients to keep large trees well away from the house. If this is not possible an impermeable root fabric can be used to stop the tree roots growing under a house.

Stormwater damage and Soil movement
This is caused when gutters, stormwater pipes and downpipes overflow/leak causing the soil around and under the footing to be saturated. Once the soil becomes saturated it then loses its ability to take load and the soil can collapse prominent to the building element dropping or moving. In some instances reactive soils can advance also prominent to cracking. This then places uplifting loads on a house which can lead to vital cracking and movement as well.

In Adelaide reactive (fine soils such as clays) can be found at the base of the foothills where fine silts run off the hills. The fine reactive soils can generally be found in Rostrevor, Athelstone and Campbelltown.

Lack of Paving around the external perimeter. This can cause expansion and contraction in the soil around the footing prominent to movement in the Building. Ie Expansion in soil after heavy rains and contraction in the soil in the summer. In some instances the contraction of the soil under the footing (on the external portion) can lead to the footing rotating on the external side as it drops. The author has seen many instances of this occurring and this leads to the whole wall leaning out or in. (Bows out at the base and then leans in at the top). In these instances the wall generally needs to be pulled down and rebuilt.

In many of the property protect reports you may see a note detailing seal gaps at the footing paving junction. Many houses inspected by this business have gaps at this junction and this can allow moisture to enter both under the house and also under the paving. Where the water enters under both elements it can erode the soil away and or cause the soil to whether advance or contract. In this instance the gap should be sealed off with a flexible sealant.

Older style wiring.
The author has seen electrical failures from the following during inspections over the years., -Canvas coated and vulcanised rubber power cables. In the first instance the canvas can be eaten by rodents or just physically ages prominent to the cables being exposed which can result in fires. The same can happen with older rubber cables which can split.

-Power cables not in conduit in taste with steel frames. I.e. If the cables are damaged the frame becomes live. A estimate of houses over the years have been inspected by property protect and found to have new wiring in all areas of the house but not inside the existing hard plaster. during the premium house inspections this business uses a high powered torch to recognize wall patches and chases to the walls. An existing house without wall chases above the light switches and power points would generally indicate that the former wiring has not been removed. In this instance property protect would propose the client to engage an electrician to carry out a search for of the house to confirm if the wiring is former to these areas. Hard plaster cannot be removed during a house inspection as the seller would not generally approve this.

Leaking pipes in wet areas This is generally caused through corrosion of lead or galvanised steel waste pipes under or in floor slabs. As the pipes corrode this leads to a leak which can wash away sub fill in a floor prominent to the floor and or footing dropping.

This is very costly to repair as generally the pipes are cast into the floor slabs in the wet areas and they need to be jack hammered up. This is a base blemish as a large estimate of houses in pre 1970 properties have galvanised steel pipes cast into the floor slabs. For these steel pipes it is not a matter of if but when the pipes need to be substituted . Having stated this steel pipes although not draining as well as they should do can function for many years until funds can be found to replace them.

If you have steel waste and or water supply pipes in a pre 1970 house and you are contemplating a wet area reparation with new tiles etc we would strongly propose you to remove the steel pipes prior to the renovation.ie If you renovate the wet areas without removing the steel pipes a failure of the pipes could result in you having to re renovate the wet area at great cost again!

Cracks/Movement in walls
Movement in any home is hard to control. In most instances cracks are caused by changes in soil moisture levels around the footing although trees can also cause vital movement. Horizontal cracks can occur in walls if a window lintel sags or if a footing/wall drops.

Diagonal cracks radiating away from window and or door heads are the most base form of cracks. Lateral movement cracks can occur with a shear load if a footing rotates (Drops) on one side. Due to Adelaide's dry climate soil shrinkage related cracking in homes is causing many problems. This leads to footing village (Dropping of the footing) and cracks in all building elements.

Roof frame failures
The first type of failure is for an older style roof which does not have under purlins and or struts. In this instance the failure is generally from the frame not being able to take the dead loads from the weight of roof tiles. It is base to see the frame sag heavily and split and this instance repairs may need to be carried out. If a roof frame is sagging from the weight of the roof tiles and the timber frame is not splitting or showing any signs of stress our guidance to you is to intimately monitor the roof frame.

In the second instance the writer has seen heavy splitting to timber around defective gang nail trusses manufactured in the 1970's. In some instances the trusses could not take roof loads and sagged.

White ant assault
Property protect does not carry out a search for for white ants in our inspections and we would propose that you engage a pest controller to do this. White ant assault is a very base problem in structure with the ants undoubtedly eating any form of timber in a home. As the timber wall frame is load bearing in a brick veneer home this can led to structural failures. The ants will ordinarily enter a home where voids are close to the ground. One example of an entry point is where the paving bridges the Damp course allowing ants to enter a wall cavity through weep holes (i.e. The paving is poured above the Damp course in the wall).

A second example is where garden beds are located up against walls without any paving and in this instance we would propose on removing the garden bed and then installing paving all around the house.

Poor Workmanship
The following defects are caused by poor workmanship which does not comply with the building Code. -Render in brick wall weep holes This stops condensation from draining out of a cavity. The writer has seen fretting render caused by blocked weep holes. -Bricks overhanging the footing. Bca allows a tolerance but in many instances concreters' set out the slab incorrectly. As the wall is not supported the bricks can bow out.

-Render bridging wall Damp Courses In many instances plasterers do not assault a horizontal line through render which can result in ground moisture and salts rising up into the wall by passing the Damp Course. This can cause Salt damp in a wall.

-Concrete slabs poured up against brickwork. In some instances around porch slabs builders sometimes place the Damp course one brick course above the footing and pour the porch slab up against the first course of clay bricks. In this situation clay bricks are not designed to be exposed to ground moisture and salts for extended periods of time and this leads to fretting of the bricks.

This is sometimes seen in older houses and it is hard to fix this if the fretting of the walls is heavy. Subject to a site visit sometimes the best choice in this instance is to jackhammer up the floor slab and then repour the concrete below the Damp Course. At the end of the day this is an costly problem to rectify. The writer has seen this in many garages in pre 1980 houses.

-Puddle flanges to wet areas not installed correctly. Puddle flanges are designed to drain any water caught between the waterproof membrane and the floor tiles. In some instances the flanges are laid proud of the floor and the trapped water cannot drain into the waste pipe. In a second floor building this ponding water can bypass the membrane prominent to the timber floor swelling and door, wall and window frames jamming up from compression loads. If this has occurred it is very costly to repair.

-Waterproof membranes to showers This is probably the largest of the observed failures mentioned in this narrative in my opinion. If a shower leaks this can cause heavy damage to the timber wall frame via wood rot and water damage. In masonry wall long term moisture leaks into the surrounding walls can lead to fretting of the masonry brick walls and render. In a metal wall frame heavy rusting can occur.

In a timber wall frame long term leaks into the shower walls can also cause swelling of the wall cladding and wall tiles debonding and cracking. In a masonry wall the high moisture levels can lead to the tiles cracking and or debonding off the walls.

The Bca (Building Code) requires silicone to the internal wall corners of a shower and many tilers still grout these areas which leads to cracking as the grout is rigid. The Bca also requires an angle to be installed at the wall floor junction in the shower and in many instances this is not installed.

Many waterproof membranes are not installed correctly or the wrong materials are used.ie Bitumen membranes to showers which leach into the grout, liquid membranes not reinforced with polypropylene gauze fabrics. Etc.

Asbestos
Most homes built before 1988 would have some cement asbestos based cladding in the house. property protect can carry out a search for to recognize this based on our belief only in our premium report. This can only be verified by analysing samples under a microscope in a laboratory so any search for is based on our belief only and would need to be confirmed by the Lab. Our premium narrative does not analyse the samples in a Laboratory.

If this material is disturbed by grinding, drilling or cutting it can be fatal. Areas where it can be found in a house include.

-Backing sheet for the power board -Old floor coverings -Eaves cladding externally. -Wet area cladding Etc.

D/Discussion

In terms of the remedies to the failures identified above these are as follows.

Slab edge wetting
This can quite undoubtedly be solved by stopping the replacement of moisture horizontally into the slab by placing an impervious membrane between the paving and the footing or directly onto the full depth of the footing. Plastic, waterproof membranes (Liquid or sheet) are the best remedies.

Salt damp
This can be repaired by forming a new Damp course by undersetting (removing bricks and inserting a new plastic membrane) or chemical injection (Silane siloxane injection) where the Damp course has failed. Where the paving bridges the damp course the paving should be lowered. If render bridges the Damp course the render can be removed.

Breacher piece failures
In this instance generally four off wall tiles, the affected render and the former fitting are removed. The reverse is then carried out with new materials.

Brick increase cracks
This form of cracking can be stopped by forming control joints in the wall above the windows and doors to allow the bricks to advance from long term moisture absorption.

Terracotta roof tiles
Generally if these tiles are fretting at the laps they should be removed and then substituted with new concrete roof tiles or metal roof cladding.

Concrete Cancer
The only way that this can be repaired is by physically removing the affected concrete fully exposing 360 Degrees of the bar, placing saw cuts , grit blasting steel, prime steel with zinc cold galvanising, prime and then replace concrete with a polymer modified shrinkage compensated repair mortar. In order to stop contaminants (Chloride ions and carbon dioxide) entering the concrete, a coating (Acrylics) should be applied to stop water and contaminant ingress. This is applied after the repair is carried out.

Trees
Once minor damage to homes has been caused generally it is not viable from a financial perspective to carry out major repairs. In some instances this may happen but this is rare. If a wall has dropped from soil shrinkage the most base rectification is to under pin the footing. This involves excavating under the existing footing, propping, pouring a new footing and then grouting between the new and existing footings. Under pinning is very expensive.

If trees cannot be removed a trench approx 2m deep can be dug between the house and the tree and then lined with an impermeable root fabric to stop the tree roots growing under the house.

Stormwater damage
If the gutters and downpipes are leaking they should be repaired and or replaced. In most instances these elements do not drain out to the street. If this is the case the stormwater should be diverted out to the road via stormwater pipes.

Lack of Paving.
The vital elements to control cracking in older homes is to keep the soil around the footing in a garage moisture range. This can be achieved by installing paving .It is prominent any way to water gardens consistently during summer for a fixed period and intervals in areas adjacent to the paving. This keeps the soil moist adjacent to the paving (Best to use an electronic watering system).

Older style wiring In order to stop the chance of an electrical fire, older wiring should be removed and substituted with new Pvc wiring together with the premise of earth leakage circuit breakers.

Leaking pipes
In order to check if existing pipes are corroding a plumber can pressure test the pipes or use a Cctv system. generally any older steel or lead pipes should be removed and substituted with Pvc any way this can be costly as concrete floors need to be jack hammered to way the pipes.

Cracks in walls
Generally the best way to control movement is to articulate a house. This allows it to move by installing wall control joints above windows and doors and slip joints between the hard plaster and the brickwork. To form a slip joint remove render, install mesh onto bricks and replaster with a lime rich mortar. A lime rich mortar is used to cut the cement article and hence the rigidity of the render with a 1 cement, 10 sand and 2 parts lime mortar).

In relation to soil shrinkage cracks a estimate of soil engineers in Adelaide have instigated the direct injection of water into the soil around the footings to the external perimeter of homes (Mainly to Parkside). This keeps the soil in a garage moisture range via the computer controlled injection of water into the soil.

Roof Frame failures
In most instances roof frame failures are easy to rectify by propping the sagged or damaged area and whether lapping the member whether side with new timber or inserting additional props (The props generally run from the under purlin to the internal wall). In the case of gang nail failures lapped timber bolted whether side of the affected timber can also solve this defect.

White ant failures.
Ants can be prevented from entering a house via chemical sprays , Ant caps (Stumped homes) or stainless steel mesh barriers (Termimesh). If existing homes are infested, the homes can be sprayed with chemicals or have bait stations inserted located around the external perimeter of the home which are undoubtedly baited with poisoned timbers (Sentricon system).

Property protect does not carry out a search for for white ants in our pre buy inspections and we would propose that you engage a pest controller to do this.

Poor workmanship In each instance the work should be carried out as per the requirements in the Bca ie.

-Weep holes during rendering cut the render out of the weepholes
-Bricks Overhang footing Set out floor slab correctly.
-Render bridges damp course Cut a horizontal line in the render over the Dpc
-Concrete slab poured up against bricks Ensure that the i.e. Porch slab is poured up against the edge of the main footing.
-Puddle flanges Ensure that the flange is flush with the top of the floor. The timber/concrete needs to be rebated down to allow the flange to sit flush with the floor.
-Membrane to showers Ensure that the membrane is installed in accordance with the Bca.

E/Conclusions
The bulk of the causes of building failures as detailed in this cast study are due to changes in the moisture conditions in the soil around the footings due to seasonal change. The remedies discussed revolve around holding the soil in a constant moisture state. The measures discussed comprise installing paving and electronic garden watering systems, diverting stormwater away from the house, ensuring plumbing does not leak, holding tree roots away from footings and articulating older homes to enable them to move.

Of the remaining failures many are due to poor maintenance and or building techniques. Ie Damp Courses bridging paving (Non Bca compliant) can cause white ant infestations and or Salt damp.

base Causes For Residential building Failures


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Saturday, July 30, 2011

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  • 2- to 3-1/2-inch clipped head stick framing nailer
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  • Length: 20-inches; 7-year manufacturer warranty

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Friday, July 29, 2011

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Thursday, July 28, 2011

How To Fix Windows That Leak Water

How To Fix Windows That Leak Water


Leaking windows can come to be a big problem for any home owner. If windows of a room leak they can consequent in spoilt walls, damaged interior and also spoil the furniture. So the leaking windows should be fixed immediately to avoid bigger problems later. Windows that leak water can be hazardous in many ways like water arrival in the room can damage the walls and weaken them. At times water reaches the galvanic circuit and can cause an accident. At times it damages the wooden frame of the window and makes the whole house insecure. Therefore fixing a leaking window is of utmost importance. If you want to fix your leaking window as Diy scheme then you can get some facts from here and fix your window with the help of some easy tools.

First of all decree the point where the window is leaking from. Start checking the outer frame of the window and find out if the silicon is tattered away or gone astray because this is the main calculate of window leakage.
Take a utility knife and scrap away any old silicon in that area. After scrapping away the old silicon if you see some remaining silicon beads you can pull those out with your hands or with a small pair of pliers.
After removing the old silicon thoroughly clean the area using degreaser and steel wool.
Now hold the silicon tube gradually and lay a small amount of silicon all around the window frame. Do it gradually because if you spread the silicon harshly then it might spoil the neatness of the frame. Let the silicon dry for a long time before letting it get wet.
Inspect the window and replace any worn out trims. Usually water damages the wooden trims and allows space for water to enter.
Now put your safety gloves on and take off any old trim with the help of crowbar. You can use the old pieces as stencils if possible. Take the measurements with the help of measuring tape.
Take a chop saw or hand saw and cut the new trim. Cut the corners of the trim so that they meet at 45-degree angle.
Now when your new trim is ready, procure it with the help of nails and hammer.
Now using paint and brush; paint the new fixtures to match the rest of the window and let it dry.

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Fixing a leaking window is very easy and you can do it yourself if you have some basic tools and never ignore small holes and leaks of the window and fix them as soon as inherent to avoid major problems later.


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How To Fix Windows That Leak Water


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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

What Does a Spalding Arena View Basketball system Have to Offer?

What Does a Spalding Arena View Basketball system Have to Offer?


Spalding Arena View Basketball Goals Introduction:

The Arena View basketball line from Spalding provides some high-end features for a consumer-end system. Spalding provides many of the products used in collegiate and expert settings. These Basketball goals gives you some of these features for your home court, personal use. A comparison of features in the middle of these systems and other systems will be attempted.

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Differences in the middle of Arena View and gigantic Basketball Systems


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Some Spalding Arena basketball hoops are on the same price level and quality level as the gigantic basketball line. These systems will have comparable specs, i.e. Backboard size, pole size, and backboard material. However, even down to the bottom end Arena goal, the backboard materials, either glass or acrylic, are always going to be thicker. The thinnest backboard is 3/8 inch, whereas the gigantic line has a thickness ranging from.21 inches to.31 inches. The thickest Arena View backboard is about 1/2 inch.

Differences in the middle of Arena View Basketball Goals and Goalsetter Basketball Systems

Pricing in the middle of these 2 basketball systems are very comparable for the same size backboards. The main differences in the middle of these two manufacturers of goals comes in the pole design, pole size, and backboard thickness on some models. The Goalsetter line uses an off-set pole build that angles part of the pole back, and then angles transmit with the mounting brackets. Arena systems use a more original straight-up-and-down design. The poles on Goalsetter Systems range in size from 4x4 inches to 6x6 inches. The Arena View basketball line uses sizes ranging from 5x5 inches to 8x8 inches. Goalsetter Basketball Systems have 3/8 inch thick backboard and Arena goals have 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch thick backboards.

Other Major Features for Arena View Basketball Goals

These basketball systems have heavy-duty rims as part of their design. The highest quality of rim ready on the these models is the 180-degree flex rim. This rim provides a break-away petition in 180 degrees along the front side of the backboard, whereas original rims have only flex forward. The supplementary highlight holds up good to aggressive play and dunking when compared to other models of breakaway rims. These rims can retail up to 0 when purchased separately. Most Arena basketball goals come with pole and backboard frame pads to help safe players. These pole pads can be very high-priced when purchased separately. For a pole pad and backboard frame pad of similar quality from Goalsetter, the cost can be upwards of 0 to 0.

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Monday, July 25, 2011

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Review on Grip-Rite 10d Sinker 3- by .12-Inch, Ring Shank, Hot-Dipped, Galvanized, Full Round Head, Plastic Collated, Stick Framing Nails, 500 per tub

21 full round head exterior galvanized stick framing nail. Plastic collated with ring shank. Primary applications include: Framing, sheathing, subfloors, and roof decking. 500 nails per plastic tub. No. GRT04HG: 2" x .113 No. GRT08RHG: 2-3/8" x .113 No. GRT408HG: 3" x .120

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Sunday, July 24, 2011

manufacture photo Frames With Diy Framing Tools

manufacture photo Frames With Diy Framing Tools


Imagine being able to frame your own photographs, prints, tapestries, and artwork as well as a professional. Picture framing is for real quite fun and easy to Diy. There are 5 easy steps to framing.

Step 1 - How to Cut Mats

Framing Nails Tool 21 Degree

Adding a colour border (the mat) around your artwork enhances the Picture and provides a restful area between the image and the Picture frame. The colour and size of the mat board must be decided first, as this will decide the farranging dimensions of your Picture frame. You start by calculating the external size of the mat.


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To cut the mat use a good capability bevel mat cutter and ruler. There are several cutting systems to suit assorted budgets and skill levels, together with the Mat expert Model 660 for the hobbyists, to the Mat expert 860B or 1060B for the keen home Picture framer.

Mark the borders to be cut on the back of the mat board.

Make sure the mat will cover the edges of the artwork, by subtracting approx. 3mm or 1/8" from the image size (length & width). Cut the mat following the instructions for your mat cutter. Attach the Picture to the mat using 2 small pieces of acid free tape on the top edge only.

Step 2 - How to Cut the Picture Frame

How much Picture frame moulding material will I need? determined measure the Picture and mat you wish to frame. Add an extra (3mm) for "play" to ensure the Picture fits for real into the terminated Picture frame.

Add the length (L) and width (W) together, then multiply the total by 2 to give you the farranging length. You also have to allow for the mitre cuts, so multiply the width (W2) of the moulding by 10 and add this to your total.

(L + W) x 2 + (W2 x 10) = Total

Making the 45 degree mitre cut in your framing material is most foremost - your joining will only be as good as your cutting. All the time use a good capability hand-operated Mitre Saw... We advise the Proman hand saw which is made in Sweden as the best on the market. Electric powered Drop Saws are not ideal for cutting small delicate Picture frames.

Good measure theory helps to make measuring easy and eliminates many mistakes. Once you have cut the first mitre, slide the Picture frame material along to the required length on the measuring scale, and set the stop. You are now ready to cut the first 2 pieces of your Picture frame. Change the settings to cut the other 2 sides of the frame.

Cutting one side for a frame is easy.

Cutting the second side to be be the same as the first, is the hard part. With the FrameCo Ezy-Measure theory you can cut accurately everytime.

Step 3 - How to Clamp Frames

How do you Clamp the Frame? Clamping the frame tightly is valuable for good joining. You can use the a Cord Clamp, or the Steel Strap Clamp to fetch the Picture frame ready for joining.

The benefit of the Strap Clamp is that you can see all the four corners of the Picture frame clamped together before joining. So alignment of the corners is easy.

All corners should match up evenly. Apply a diminutive wood glue to all corners of the frame for added strength. determined tension the clamp production sure that the corners are aligned then fetch the clamp tightly.

You are now ready for joining.

Step 4 - How to Join Frames

Most Picture frames are joined with a V-Nail. This is the easiest recipe and it is what the professional Picture framer uses. The FrameCo PushMaster joining tool, inserts V-Nails into the angle of the frame. Two V-Nails in each angle is ordinarily all that is necessary.

The PushMaster can be used by hand alone on most Picture frames, or you can tap the PushMaster with a mallet if the frame is hardwood. The PushMaster can be upgraded to the BenchMaster® which will insert V-Nails into the harderst of timbers.

V-nails: How do they work?

Upon entry, the sides of the V-Nail are deflected outwards. As it pulls back into its original shape, the join is pulled together. The diminutive curl on the edge of the V-Nail locks the nail into the grain of the timber. Glue alone is not sufficient for strong carport joints, by adding a V-Nail you achieve a strong, tight joint. Which V-Nail size . . . You use a V-Nail about 1/2 the frame height.

Sizes are: 7mm - 1/4", 10mm - 3/8", 12mm - 1/2", 15mm - 5/8"

Step 5 - How to finish Frames

Take the empty Picture frame to a glass merchant and have them cut a piece of glass for you. If you wish to cut glass yourself use a good capability oil filled cutter, or the Glass Cutter. Use only 2mm plain or non-reflective glass.

Fome Core is the ideal backing board as it is light weight, acid free and easy to cut. You can also use 3mm Mdf or cardboard. Place the empty frame face down and insert the glass, then the matted Picture and lastly the backing board.

Use the PushMaster to insert brads or flexipoints into the rear of your Picture frame to hold all things in place.

Use Backing Nails for large frames or heavy items. Flexipoints are flexible and ideal for needlework or when you want to re move the picture, eg. Photo frames.

To seal the artwork in the frame, tape over the brads/flexipoints using a good capability backing tape. This will preclude dust or insects getting into the picture.

To hang your picture, again use your PushMaster tool. measure one third down the side of the Picture frame from the top and mark that spot. Place a screw eye into the slot provided in the end of the Pushmaster tool, then screw the eye into the frame. Repeat on the other side and then attach wire from one side to the other.

You have now completed your Picture framing project. More information about how to make Picture frames can be viewed at http://www.clubframeco.com/5_steps_Introduction.html

manufacture photo Frames With Diy Framing Tools


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Saturday, July 23, 2011

NuMax SFR2190 21 Degree Framing Nailer

Cheap Deals on NuMax SFR2190 21 Degree Framing Nailer

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Review on NuMax SFR2190 21 Degree Framing Nailer

SFR2190 Features: -Framing nailer. -360 Adjustable exhaust. -Magnesium construction. -Finger depth adjustment. -Ergonomically designed comfort grip. -No-mar pad. -Anti-dry-cycle mechanism. -Interchangeable triggers. -Oil and wrenches included. -1 Year limited warranty. -Dimensions: 20.75'' H x 15'' W x 5.75'' D.

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Friday, July 22, 2011

Bostitch RH-S8D113EP Round Head 2-3/8-Inch x .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (5,000 per Box)

Cheap Deals on Bostitch RH-S8D113EP Round Head 2-3/8-Inch x .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (5,000 per Box)

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Review on Bostitch RH-S8D113EP Round Head 2-3/8-Inch x .113-Inch by 21 Degree Plastic Collated Framing Nail (5,000 per Box)

Full round head angled stick nails (21). For use in Bostitch model No. N95RHN, N88RH, F21PL, DuoFast model No. CN137, CN350, Hitachi model No. NR83A, NR90AC, Senco model No. SN60, SN65, SN65C, Paslode model No. 5325RHN, 5350 SRH 20, Makita model No. AN830

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Thursday, July 21, 2011

The Easiest Way to Build a Mirror Frame

The Easiest Way to Build a Mirror Frame


If you have a mirror and it whether needs a frame or needs a new frame you can build one economy than it may cost to buy one. You will need some tools but it doesn't take very much skill to properly build a frame for your mirror. You will need a saw, preferably a miter saw but a accepted hand saw will be sufficient. You will also need wood glue, a hammer and small framing nails.

The first step would be to production the base which will but the main reserve retention your mirror. Depending on the size of your mirror you may need different size wood to build your support. To build a 24 inch by 24 inch mirror I would use a ½-1 inch by 2-3 inch piece of wood. After you part and cut the pieces of wood for your reserve you should lay it out how it will be constructed. Lay your mirror on top of the wood. Your mirror should lay about halfway into the support. Trace the mirror and now you know where to cut your grooves. You need to cut into the wood about as thick as the glass that way it can actually sit into your support. All four sides should have the same size groove and now you can put them together using framing nails and wood glue.

Framing Nails Tool 21 Degree

Now that you have your reserve made you can buy some modeling at your local hardware store. This will be placed on top of your mirror and frame to give it a fulfilled, look. You can buy stain and stain your modeling and reserve if you do not like the general wood color. If you determine to stain it, be sure to buy a clear coat to finish the stain job. When cutting and measuring your modeling you need to cut at 45 degree angles, which is why a miter saw it adored but it is potential with a hand saw. Now that your pieces of modeling are cut and stained, you can assemble them. Use wood glue to connect them and use masking tape to hold them together while the glue dries. Now that your modeling is assembled and glue you can lay it on top of your reserve and mirror. Once you confirm the sizes are matching up you can glue the model to the support. Use masking tape to hold it until the glue dries. You should also take framing nails from behind the reserve and hammer them through the reserve wood into the modeling. Once you are done with the nailing and the glue has dried you just need to frame wiring to run in the back of your frame and it is ready to hang on your wall.

It will take some time if you are not customary with wood working but if you have patience you will generate a gorgeous mirror frame. You can save money and be proud of what you have created.

The Easiest Way to Build a Mirror Frame


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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Freeman PFR2190 21-Degree Full-Head Framing Nailer

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Review on Freeman PFR2190 21-Degree Full-Head Framing Nailer

PFR2190 Features: -21 3.5'' Framing nailer. -Material: Magnesium. -360 adjustable exhaust. -Anodized aluminum cylinder and magazine. -Durable plastic case. -Finger depth adjustment. -No-mar pad. -One piece drive blade. -Anti-dry-cycle mechanism.

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Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Wood Working Tools - Mitre Saw

Wood Working Tools - Mitre Saw


What Does A Mitre Saw Do?

A mitre saw allows you to make angled cross cuts.

Framing Nails Tool 21 Degree

Let us take a uncomplicated example of a photo frame. You have a long piece of wood that you want to cut into four pieces to make up the frame. But instead of plainly joining the pieces together so they are aligned at 90 degrees to each other, you prefer to make a mitre joint.

What is a mitre joint? It is when you bevel the two pieces to be attached together so that they meet at an angle. In the case of our photo frame, 45 degrees is an standard angle. Think of a photo frame you have seen recently and you should observation that most of them are made in this way.

Why Make A Mitre Joint?

In general, a mitre joint is carefully an sharp joint, especially for frames (picture or otherwise). When the depth of the joint becomes greater then stronger options such as dovetails may be considered.

Sometimes a pipe is joined using a mitre saw to generate the joint. In some such situations there may even be no other viable alternative.

Manual Mitre Saw

This features a metal base onto which a backsaw is positioned and is able to freely rotate. A backsaw is used because this allows for greater precision in cutting.

The base contains vice clamps onto which you can derive your piece of wood. Guiding rods then allow you to fix the angle at which you want to saw. This is a very similar idea to the former "mitre box".

Mitre Box

The mitre box precedes the hand-operated mitre saw but the principle is much the same.

It is nothing more than an open ended and open top box with slots cut in it. It is usually made of wood or plastic.

The idea is that you position your piece of wood inside the box and then place your saw through the guides and begin to cut. The guides are usually set at 45 and 90 degrees. Some models feature 60 degrees, 30 degrees and other less tasteless angles.

It is good convention to clamp your work to a bench but if you are cutting small pieces then you can often go without.

Powered Mitre Saw

The above devices are commonly only good for production photo frames and similar constructions.

For larger applications you may find it more productive to use a power tool. Also, the price of such tools has dropped considerably in the last few years.

A powered mitre saw usually features an aluminium base above which is mounted a circular saw. The saw can be rotated around the base and locked into position at whatever angle you choose.

A collection of dissimilar models are available on the market. The most basic is a sliding saw. The saw is able to slide along a rail and this means that it can cut to larger than its own diameter. Other beloved version is a blend saw. This allows you to not only angle your cut but also to tilt the blade at the same time.

Wood Working Tools - Mitre Saw


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Monday, July 18, 2011

Porter-Cable FR350A Round Head 2-Inch to 3-1/2-Inch Framing Nailer

Review Porter-Cable FR350A Round Head 2-Inch to 3-1/2-Inch Framing Nailer

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Product Feature

  • Uses 20 degree to 22 degree nails, 2-inch to 3-1/2-inch by .113-inch to .148-inch plastic collated round-head framing nails
  • Power to drive nails (up to 3-1/2-inch by .131-inch) into engineered lumber
  • Compact body design for better balance and style
  • Consistent power on every shot with internal piston catch mechanism
  • Selectable trigger - restrictive or contact actuation mode; Tool-free depth-of-drive adjustment with detents for proper setting of nail heads

Product Overview

Ideal for carpenters, woodworkers, and do-it-yourselfers, the Porter-Cable FR350A 3-1/2-Inch Round-Head Framing Nailer Kit has all the power you need to drive round-head framing nails into engineered lumber. Its compact body is well-balanced for a natural feel, and its user-friendly design allows for fast reloads, tool-free adjustments, consistent power, and more.


The Porter-Cable FR350A Framing Nailer Kit
At a Glance:
  • Pneumatic driving action of 70-120 PSI
  • Internal piston mechanism
  • Selectable trigger
  • Tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive
  • Compact, balanced body design


An in-line, hard-coat anodized magazine holds up to 64 nails and provides balance.
Enough Raw Power to Tackle Tough Jobs
The FR350A nailer helps simplify everything from siding jobs to framing work to furniture construction. Whether the job is big or small, the FR350A works fast and provides high-quality results nail after nail.

Powered by an operating pressure of 70-120 PSI, the FR350A supplies the necessary raw power to sink nails fast. And thanks to its internal piston mechanism, its power remains consistent throughout the job, which means you'll enjoy smooth, trouble-free operation.

Selectable Trigger and Adjustable Depth-of-Drive
For additional flexibility and versatility, a selectable trigger lets you choose restrictive or contact-actuation modes. For convenience, tool-free adjustable depth-of-drive eliminates guesswork with detents for proper nail-head setting.

Time-Saving Design with 64-Nail Capacity
A great time saver, this framing nailer has an in-line, hard-coat anodized magazine that holds up to 64 nails. And to keep you on track, a nail lockout mechanism lets you know when it's time to reload. The reloads themselves are quick and easy thanks to the bypass nail pusher. And to save you even more time, a tool-free adjustable exhaust minimizes downtime.

An added bonus, a removable non-marring nose tip offers on-tool storage to helps keep you from dropping or losing nails.

What's in the Box
FR350A framing nailer; carrying case; 1/4-inch air fitting with dust cover; and oil.



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Sunday, July 17, 2011

Grip-Rite 6d Cooler- 2-Inch x .113 Ring shank hot-dipped galvanized 21 Degree Full Round Head, Plastic Collated, Stick Framing Nails (500 per tub)

Review Grip-Rite 6d Cooler- 2-Inch x .113 Ring shank hot-dipped galvanized 21 Degree Full Round Head, Plastic Collated, Stick Framing Nails (500 per tub)

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Product Feature

  • 6d 'Cooler' - 2" x .113" - Vinyl Coated, 21° Full Round Head
  • RING SHANK For Added Holding Power, HOT-DIPPED GALVANIZED For Exterior Use, Plastic Collated Strip Framing Nails
  • Clear, Resealable, Reusable, Stackable Plastic Tub. GREAT for Do-It-Yourself Projects
  • Use with Grip-Rite® GRTRH350 - 21° Full Round Head Framing Nailer
  • 500 Nails per Tub

Product Overview

21 full round head exterior galvanized stick framing nail. Plastic collated with ring shank. Primary applications include: Framing, sheathing, subfloors, and roof decking. 500 nails per plastic tub. No. GRT04HG: 2" x .113 No. GRT08RHG: 2-3/8" x .113 No. GRT408HG: 3" x .120

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